Hiking the Golden Road: A Fast-Paced Trek Across Pembrokeshire’s Ancient Ridge

There is something completely magical about the hills towering just beyond our valley. If you’re looking to swap the peaceful pace of the campsite for a bit of rugged, open-air adventure, packing a flask and heading up into the Preselis is an absolute must.

Right at the top sits the Golden Road. It’s a spectacular 7-mile ridge walk that cuts across the very spine of the hills. Walking it feels a bit like stepping into a time machine. This path has been used since at least 3,000 BC as an ancient highway, and it’s the exact landscape where the historic Stonehenge bluestones were quarried thousands of years ago.

Now, if you look this route up online, most hiking blogs will warn you to set aside 4 to 6 hours. But honestly? We laced up our boots, kept a good, steady momentum, and managed to clear the whole ridge in just 2 hours. If you have a decent level of walking fitness and don't linger too long at every single milestone, it’s a brilliant, brisk morning or afternoon challenge that won't eat up your entire day.

Elevated Starts & Rolling Ridges

The best thing about starting the Golden Road from the Bwlch Gwynt car park (right at the top of the B4329) is that you skip the grueling, sea-level slog normally required to get views this good. You park up and you’re immediately starting at high elevation.

Don't let the word "ridge" fool you into thinking it's completely flat, though! It’s a beautifully undulating path with about 700 to 800 feet of total ascent mixed into the route. You’ll tackle a steady, quarter-mile pull right out of the gate, enjoy some level stretches, drop into a few shallow dips, and then face a final, rocky pull up to the fort at Foel Drygarn. Knocking out those rolling climbs and clearing the full 7 miles in 2 hours means keeping a really brisk, active pace; it's less of a lazy Sunday wander and more of a proper, rewarding mountain march!

On a beautifully clear day, the vistas open up across the entire county, and if you look out west across the ocean, you can actually see the peaks of the Wicklow Mountains over in Ireland lining up on the horizon.

Giants, Boars, and King Arthur

If you love folklore, these hills are steeped in it. The Preselis are the setting for one of the oldest surviving King Arthur legends in the world, found in the ancient Welsh texts of The Mabinogion.

According to the myth of Culhwch and Olwen, an Irish king was turned into a monstrous, wicked wild boar named the Twrch Trwyth. Arthur and his knights chased the ferocious beast across the sea, landing on the Pembrokeshire coast and hunting it right over the steep slopes of the Preseli Hills.

As you push along the trail, you’ll track straight past these legendary, ancient landmarks:

• Foel Feddau: The highest point on the path (467m), marked by a massive Bronze Age burial mound.

• Bedd Arthur: A mysterious, eye-shaped circle of standing stones. Folklore calls this the "Grave of Arthur," naming it as the final resting place of the legendary king or his knights.

• Carn Menyn: A dramatic, rugged outcrop of jagged rocks where those famous Stonehenge bluestones were first cut and moved.

• Foel Drygarn: The grand finale—an immense Iron Age hill fort that commands the eastern end of the ridge.

A Few Practical Tips

• Mind the mud: The Preseli hills are notorious for holding onto water, even during the peak of summer. You will hit a few incredibly boggy stretches where you’ll need to pick your way through the heather or time a few wide jumps. Leave the trainers at the cottage and wear proper, sturdy waterproof boots.

• Keep your bearings: It’s a wild, open landscape and the path isn't strictly signposted. Weather can shift quickly up there, so make sure you’ve downloaded an offline map (like OS Maps) or have a traditional map and compass handy.

The Best Part: Post-Walk Refueling

There isn't any facilities on the ridge itself, which is part of its isolated charm, but the spots just down the road make for the perfect reward:

• Caffi’r Sgwar in Maenclochog: The ideal stop if you finish in the morning. Pull up a chair for a hot coffee, a brilliant cooked breakfast, or a giant slice of homemade cake.

• Tafarn Sinc in Rosebush: If you time your walk closer to lunch or dinner, this place is non-negotiable. It’s a legendary, community-run pub clad entirely in red corrugated iron, complete with sawdust on the floors and a fantastic, hearty menu.

It’s an atmospheric, quiet, and deeply historic stretch of land; even on a sunny weekend, you’ll likely only cross paths with a handful of other walkers.

If you're mapping out your itinerary for your next stay with us and want to test your legs, definitely add this one to the list. Just catch us by the tents or drop me a message before you leave and we’ll happily point you in the right direction

Reach out for bookings or questions anytime.

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